[pre]Coterie Accessories Roundup: AccessoriesTheShow and Accessories@Coterie
By Lauren Parker
[pre]Coterie market just wrapped up at the Javits Center, offering lots of Immediate summer accessories buys as well as further reaching items for Fall/Winter. Accessories were a highlight, both at the Accessories@Coterie marketplace and at AccessoriesTheShow.
To help retailers get a handle on what trends to buy, AccessoriesTheShow featured two trend activations spanning the immediate buying season and future trend projections. Retailers entering the show were greeted with the “Endless Summer” setup featuring immediate summer buys from ATS exhibitors and organized by trend expert Jayne Mountford. “I can’t tell you how many retailers came over to my booth saying they saw my items in the display and wrote down the booth number!” said Lisa Zampolin of jewelry line Love, Lisa.
“We were very excited to increase our activations that assist retailers with identifying the trends of the season and showing them how our brands interpret those trends,” says Zoila Benavides, Show Director for AccessoriesTheShow. “With so many trends out there, we help retailers navigate their way through it all!”
Once buyers planned their summer strategies, the Accessories Council and accessories consultant/freelancer Lauren Parker of Lauren Parker Creative Media gave them a clear picture of the Fall/Holiday 2019 Accessories Trends to know. This detailed slide presentation featured overarching fashion runway themes and how accessories fit into them, as well as accessories-specific micro trends.
Third, ATS featured a multi-brand “Swag Bag” of gifted accessories for buyers, introducing them to brands at the show they might not have known, and putting others top of mind.
Here, a quick overview of some favorites from Accessories at [pre] Coterie and AccessoriesTheShow:
ACCESSORIES AT [PRE] COTERIE
The Accessories Council took a multi-brand booth at [pre]Coterie featuring Joseph & Stacey, Amato Style, Dune Jewelry and Payton James—all new to the show. “We are proud to host shared booth space at the shows—we know it’s important for our members to get the valuable exposure and feedback from the buyers,” says Karen Giberson, president of the Accessories Council. “We know that participating in trade shows, on a regular basis, is a key ingredient to growing a new brand. The Informa team has been very helpful in helping to prepare and groom our emerging talent.” Such talent didn’t go unrecognized; even style icon Iris Apfel stopped by the multi-brand booth to check out the offerings!
One handbag line making its debut at the show was the Nashville-based Payton James. This relatively new line is all about simplicity and shape, featuring Italian nappa leather but handcrafted in India, many featuring wooden ring or bar handles. Payton James studied apparel design at O’More College, graduating in 2017, and whet her accessories appetite taking shoemaking classes in New York “just for fun.”
Also making its debut via the Accessories Council was Joseph & Stacey, a unique handbag line from Korea featured a patented pleated leather and pleated knits design. The bags are soft and lightweight yet have surprising structure, meaning the pleat designs won’t lose their shape over time. With knife pleats so popular in skirts and other fashion styles at the moment, these pleated handbags, which come in both large and small versions, are particularly timely.
Capturing the interchangeable jewelry trend was Amato Style, which featured leather chokers with decorative tassel centers that could be swapped out for other designs. While consumers can customize their own colors and combinations on the site’s direct-to-consumer AmatoStyle Design Bar, retailers at the show could do the design work themselves, select pre-made styles, or purchase the add-ons separately. Decorative lariat styles and leather cuffs with semiprecious stones rounded out the mix
The third featured brand was Dune Jewelry, which actually brings the beach to each wearer with authentic beach sand set into sterling silver jewelry. Each item lists where the sand is from, so women can buy as a souvenir or create their own romantic beach drama in their mind.
Hair Today… Hair accessories, or hair jewelry, have been taking off in a huge way, with jewelry designers layering hair jewelry into their mix. Marlyn Schiff, for example, did a brisk business with pearl-beaded hair clips and barrettes, as well as colored tile hair accessories. “Because of the new trend in hair we created some great new immediate jewels for the hair and it was a huge hit!” says Schiff. “We will definitely continue to add on some sparkle for the hair for holiday!” For Fall, the company did very well with beaded and enamel jewelry in colors of army green, wine and navy, focusing on hoops in varying materials. Another pleasant surprise, said Schiff, was the continuation of rainbow colored crystal.
Strap Happy: Thick webbing straps that attach to bags are having a trend moment, a “streetwise” update to the more “boho” guitar straps of a several years ago. Featuring bold stripes, bold words or camouflage, these can be mixed and matched for a pop of color or attitude. These are also sold separately as retail add ons so consumers can purchase multiples and switch them out at whim. Camouflage gives this trend extra street cred.
There were plenty of new brands and line extensions to discover at ATS. As companies vie for market share in a crowded market, many are expanding their range of offerings, some tied into their signature looks, while others were more departures. Love, Lisa expanded its metal/stone/crystal line with a whole collection of colorful clay heishi beaded jewelry slated to go “from beach to bar.”
“I feel confident that I did so well because I was not afraid of color this season,” says Lisa Zampolin. “People were drawn to my booth each time they saw all the beautiful colors. The beads are great for the beach and all you need to do is add your charm and head out at night.”
Jewelry company Yochi added olive green and black military-like caps adorned with her signature gold insect jewelry, all coordinating with her jewelry.
Trend jewelry company NahMu also expanded its offerings with a first-ever handbag line ranging from vegan leather cylinder buckets to tye-die drawstring pouches. Tie dye remains an important part of the summer season (and will even continue into fall), and these lightweight bags captured all these trends.
There were plenty of brands hitting the shows for the first time, both at AccessoriesTheShow’s Feature section for emerging brands, as well as those with full-line booths.
One standout was Leather Wraps, one-of-a-kind hand-made leather shawls crafted by artisans in Ecuador. Although mostly shown in solid colors, the ones with multicolored leather pieces were exceptionally striking. These artisanal shawls captured the patchwork and craft trend, all while helping indigenous communities thrive. Perfect as fashion wraps or even decorative throws.
The biggest news was the dominance of faux, namely faux fur and vegan leather. Faux fur shows no sign of slowing down, and it’s getting a boost from the spotted and striped animal trend (even snake print) that’s coming on strong for FW19. It’s all about cozy, affordable comfort. Still need convincing about the plush faux fur bucket hat? Just look at Tom Ford’s FW19 show.
Even real fur is making room for faux. With a potential retail fur ban looming in the five boroughs of New York City, those who design with real fur are understandably getting ahead of the threat. “We’ve been adding more faux fur into the line,” said Ben Hassan, owner of La Fiorentina, which is known for its beautiful fur fashion accessories. “But honestly, I’m not that worried. We actually started in faux fur even before we added the real thing, and the quality we have is great. Plus we’re also heavy into knit ponchos with pearl or metal embellishments as well as silky print ponchos.”
There’s also concern since a New York fur ban would also prohibit selling fur wholesale (including New York trade shows), but the Accessories Council is working extremely hard to make sure the ban doesn’t happen, according to president Karen Giberson.
Flirty Eyes: The evil eye isn’t so evil anymore. In fact, it’s pretty glam. As seen at ATS’s trend setup, designers have turned an exotic, mythical symbol into something more flirty. Case in point: Be the Good’s eye earrings with lashes (far left). “We sell tons of these to eyelash bars,” says founder and creative director Barbara Gram, who got her start in the beauty industry and understands the potential of such retail venues. “Women feel so glamorous after they get their lash extensions, they love these earrings!” Perfect for Instagram,
Beaded Pearls: Beaded handbags made with plastic beads have been retro It bag darlings lately, and they’re evolving into something more elegant moving forward. Now, we see full pearl bucket bags and cross-body bags, and they can be worn both dressy or casual. While the increase of pearl jewelry is often pearls mixed with metal, these bags are 100% pearls.
LinkedIn: Resin links continue to be a strong trend, both in tortoise, horn and composite forms. RUSH by Denis & Charles updated its signature link collections with a unique iridescent coating, creating a mother-of-pearl like finish on lighter pieces and an almost abalone finish on darker ones. The effect was striking, elevating a casual style to something dressier.
Fit for a Queen… or a Princess: Did you know they just announced dates for Season 3 of “The Crown” on Netflix? Or maybe you’re just obsessed with Princesses Meghan and Kate? There’s a reason that glittering tiaras are having a moment. And if that’s a bit too much, take note of the plethora of hair accessories, from wraps that can be twisted up like crowns or tiaras, or the easier-to-wear barrettes and bobby pins.