AccessoriesTheShow and Accessorie Circuit Holiday / Resort Wrap Up
By Lauren Parker
NY Womens August—the Holiday/Resort edition of AccessoriesTheShow and Accessorie Circuit—just wrapped, giving retailers plenty of ideas of what to buy for holiday parties, holiday gifting and winter beach vacations. As always, Informa Markets (formerly UBM Fashion) went to great lengths to help retailers sort through the extensive offerings and curate their buys for the seasons ahead with trend vignettes, digital trend boards and a live trend presentation. Below, a look at the big seasonal themes, and don’t forget to look for our Accessories Council members!
Trend expert Jayne Mountford curated a selection of Accessorie Circuit exhibitors into a “Haute Hippie” display at the show.
“This brightly colored winter’s tale is a fluid fusion of globally inspired references, influenced by exotic travels and injected with an opulent bohemian spirit,” wrote Mountford. “Look for jewelry with stones, coins and charms, printed silk bags and scarves, faux fur stoles and hats and artisanally crafted cold weather knits. Maximal embellishment, including feathers, fringe, sequins and stones, is key.”
A close-up detail of the display reveals a variety of examples of flowers, coin jewelry and beaded fringe. Gold was definitely the color of the day, mixing well with rich reds and coppers.
Moons & Celestial Bodies
Americans put a man on the moon 50 years ago, and this half-century milestone has been giving us lots of reason to celebrate. In addition to museum exhibitions and documentaries on the subject (see recent Accessories Council post on the current “Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion” exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum), accessories designers have joined the space race as well.
Kamaria jewelry captures the moon and the stars, not to mention the growing trend for super-delicate, layerable “micro charm” jewelry. Kamaria means “Bright like moonlight” in Swahili, and the tagline is “Be the light that changes the tides.” Lab-grown opals give these tiny charms a heavenly glow, plus keep the retail prices down on the sterling and vermeil items (average retail is $65). Plus, 10% of profits benefit Restore Dignity, a charity that provides financial assistance to survivors of campus sexual assault. If that doesn’t send you heart to the moon and back, nothing will.
Meira T Celestial handbag is handpainted by a New York City artist with moon, stars, planets and tiny stardust. Gold and silver paint gives it a heavenly glow. Available in navy, black and other colors.
Shell jewelry continues into Holiday, proving that it’s not just a warm-weather or summery item. With their iridescent glow, these shell pendants and earrings from Rush by Denis and Charles get a celestial glow, accented with tiny golden stars and crescent moons.
Whimsical and Wonderful
Life’s certainly not all about rainbows and sunshine, especially when you turn on the news, but sometimes we want to pretend that it is. Whimsical accessories in rainbow hues continue to shine, especially for the holiday gift-giving market. They can be easily selected to fit a certain personality, or just capture a trend motif. The theme also drifts into empowerment, with bold messaging that boosts sisterhood, women and friendship.
Deepa Gurnani moved into whimsical territory with its extensive line of beaded earrings in shapes like flamingos, ice cream cones, rainbows and more. “With the exception of the deliberately mismatched sneaker pair (note the incredible beaded laces!), the earrings pairs were shown mismatched on the displays just to save space, although you could wear them this way! There are no rules in this type of fun jewelry,” says designer/founder Jay Lakhani. “We’ve been doing great with this line because it makes people smile.”
Another whimsical line is Be The Good, which sells initial and word necklaces on cards perfect for gifting. “We’re also doing really well with our latest endeavor, which focuses on words that celebrate our daily heroes in the service industry,” says founder/creative director Barb Gram. “For example, you might want to gift Fur Boss to your dog walker, or Glam Squad to your hairdresser or manicurist. People who work in the service industry don’t always get the honor they deserve.”
Simitri evening bags capture the whimsical spirit with colorful box clutches covered with everything from chain fringe mixed with neon green to all-over colorful sequins that look like the bags were rolled in a bowl of glam confetti. “These are true party bags,” says Simitri co-owner Gayatri Chopra. “They’re upscale but also a lot of fun.” The line is also known for its jeweled beetle bags.
Jeff Wan, who is a finalist in the Design Excellence Awards, riffed on the Chinese takeout food carton with this bold Lunch Box bag design updated in luxe leathers. Bright Crayola colors, even a metallic red, are for the intrepid fashionista. Prepare to get stopped on the street.
Who said that Holiday always had to be super feminine? Designers this year added a lot of edge and a bit of punk to the formula, mixing in silver chains and studs alongside lots of black lace and red flowers and bows. Flowers remain dimensional, from jewelry to bags, and red pops from the black palette.
Do you die for fashion? Take a closer look (actually, you need to take a big step back) at this giant scarf from Benny Setti showroom and you’ll see that the flowers actually fall into the shape of a skull. “We got inspired by a flower shop window we saw in Paris where the flowers were shaped like a skull,” says Margarita Martinez of showroom X’Tige. When worn, the skull is hidden but it’s always there as an edgy secret.
Carolee captured the “pretty tough” spirit with two collections: one mixing leather studded with pearls, the other inserting thick chains into pearl chokers and other types of jewelry. Carolee is in the middle of a relaunch since 2018 under new creative director Biagio Galotti, who came from Gucci and Swarovski. “I studied the Carolee history and loved how it was always dedicated to women, but I am now always putting pearls out in a new way.” Look for the pearl-studded “rock n roll” leather collection, plus chain mail accented with pearls, and pearl-tipped chokers.
Carolee’s relaunch is right on time, as pearls continue an upward trajectory. We see them in both vintage and modern ways, from all pearl “beaded” bags to accent pearls.
Mixing pearls with crystals also takes pearls out of the classic realm. “We were inspired by Chanel’s use of pearls for this season,” says Millianna co-founder Sharmilla Persaud. “We did pearls with Art Deco accents, plus long ropes of pearls mixed with faceted black crystals in three different lengths that can be worn together, or twisted up shorter. We love the retur of the Art Deco trend, so we brought back some ‘vintage’ Millianna styles that had a Deco twist.”
Natural pearls, in coin and baroque shapes, are also growing in popularity, with their irregular shapes adding individuality and interest. Here, Ela Rae makes peal items for layering, some as full strands, others with pendants.
Marcia Moran went for celestial and mystical pearls, with small coin pearl pendants featuring a crescent moon and the evil eye, encrusted with stones. Another technique was embedding stones directly into large baroque pearl pendants for a pop of color and jewelry interest.
Pearl hair barrettes jump on the hot hair accessories trend, adding a glow that just brings out the white in the eyes. Spelling out words like LOVE make it especially fun for the Holidays. Shown: Medusa’s Heirlooms.
Animal prints get as varied as the animals in the jungle, from black and white zebra stripes, orange and black tiger stripes, snakeskin and leopard spots. Many designers showed the animal prints in their natural colors and state, while some experimented and got a bit creative.
Designers showed varieties of animals at once, too. And sometimes the animal print just serves as a small accent, like these structured handbags from Street Level with snake-wrapped handles.
Jewelry designer Marlyn Schiff wrapped snakeskin-printed leather around circular drop earrings. White and gray looked most natural, with pops of red adding holiday flavor. Schiff also arranged small snakeskin leather-covered disks into hoops for an almost polka dot effect.
Newcomer TRVL Designs by ID Accessories printed stripes and spots on its poly twill train and cosmetic cases, as well as vinyl prints on clear bags. Real double-bamboo zipper pulls elevate the line and items nest inside each other making multiple purchases or gifting easy (one bag for, say, cosmetics, another for cords and power packs, another for skincare). The brand also plans to play with more color-on-color animal prints in the future to take them out of the natural realm. Other items include shoe/lingerie bags and packing cubes.
Actress, host and designer Stacy Kessler has always been a girl on the go, so her bags easily transition from daytime to a night out on the dance floor. PETA-approved vegan leather bags include the Go-Go bag, the Disco bag (featured above), the Faux Fur bag and a special edition hand-painted by graffiti artist Dylan Bauvez. All give a portion of proceeds to charities such as Susan G. Komen, Wounded Warrior and more. One popular item at the show was embossed skulls on a pewter-colored bag.
Borrowed from the Boys
Dual Gender and gender fluidity is a hot topic these days, and accessories designers took this to heart. While they didn’t necessarily create unisex lines, they created items that took a bit from each, from menswear prints to vintage jewelry accents.
Military and utility has always been a masculine/feminine trend, and Aegle Design’s thick nylon bags add structure and a bit of sheen, from camo to military olive drab. The small bucket bags with both shoulder and cross-body straps offer versatility for the gal on the go.
Payton James’ bags also fit into this trend, with a bit of masculine structure but a micro size made just for her.
The Royal Treatment
With the royals making fashion headlines daily, it’s no surprise we’re giving fashion the royal treatment as well. Some of this is done in more literal ways, while others are more subtle.
One crown item comes from Erin Knight Designs at RJM Showroom, who takes vintage and collectible pins and other pieces of collectible jewelry and reworks them into new pieces.
Kozakh Designs calls these necklaces “crown necklaces,” featuring little semiprecious stone crowns that float atop a coin pearl pendants. Tapping into the pearl trend, they look like little halos as well, in a God Save the Queen sort of way!
But maybe the true royals shouldn’t get all the attention! Nahua’s “God Save the Bees” is a fun riff on Britain’s God Save the Queen slogan, complete with crown motif pendants and appliques plus royal looking heart insignias on red velvet.
And for that final pop of royal red? This crown headpiece from Deepa Gurnani, with wire flowers that can be slightly bent and shaped at will.
As a reminder, there will be a reprisal of the Resort 2020 presentation from the show, held on August 22nd for Accessories Council members and non-members alike.